BRAKE UPGRADE FRONT conversion kit 7 austin a30 a35 TO 8 MORRIS MINOR no disc

BRAKE UPGRADE FRONT conversion kit 7 austin a30 a35 TO 8 MORRIS MINOR no disc
BRAKE UPGRADE FRONT conversion kit 7 austin a30 a35 TO 8 MORRIS MINOR no disc
BRAKE UPGRADE FRONT conversion kit 7 austin a30 a35 TO 8 MORRIS MINOR no disc

BRAKE UPGRADE FRONT conversion kit 7 austin a30 a35 TO 8 MORRIS MINOR no disc
The aim here is to change the useless 7 front drum brakes of an Austin A30 or of an early sprite to the 8 inch Morris Minor drum brakes… This is a substantial increase of 50%!! Maths of 50% if you really wanna know. Areas per brake shoe inside the drum = 7″ 28.8 x 175 = 5040sqmm, 8″ = 37.3 x 200 = 7460sqmm This is a 1.5 times increase in braking area… Plus it’s all new, not 60 years old. THIS IS THE BASIC KIT WITH INSTRUCTIONS. THERE ARE OPTIONAL EXTRAS (AS LISTED FAR BELOW IN “OPTIONAL”), AS NOT EVERYONE WILL WANT ALL OF THOSE. PLEASE READ THE ITEM FULLY AND SEE WHAT IS APPLICABLE AND EXTRA TO YOU AND YOUR CAR (ie a30/sprite) IN OPTIONAL FIRST. PLEASE ALSO READ THE BLUE PARAGRAPH IN “OPTIONAL” (Between D and E) AS THERE ARE CHANGES WITH MY LATEST ORDERS JUST MADE JULY 2019. This a long article read it all, to the end , so you understand all aspects of this sale!! Note the NEW 8 drums and backing plates… Components in this kit are mainly new but some are recond (plates). New parts are sourced from different suppliers as quality on some parts had issues. The choices are made according to problems I have come across and solved in the various real installations I have done, learning all the time. As I said, the aim is to switch the useless 7 front drum brakes of an Austin A30 or A35 to 8 inch Morris Minor drum brakes… A substantial increase of 50%!!! . Once done, the parts are all Morris Minor, cheap and readily available. Only the brakes are changed, nothing else up the front although I give you many tips on side-issues that I have learnt the hard way how to resolve. The rear stays the same, but I give you tips on setting it right in the three steps necessary (in an A30) to achieve correct rear braking (often not done correctly). My Austin A30 has had this for 8 years now… I remember before worrying about traffic lights up ahead if a car is waiting to turn… Trying to catch their eye just in case… They will expect you to stop! Idiots cutting in front as you approach a red light… An ambulance driven by some stupid young woman cut in front of me once, expecting me to stop like a modern car!!! Car swerving like mad as i tried to miss her… Just constant worry about the poxy brakes. And with my engine mods, it was even more concerning!!! Now it is really good… Pulls up sharp and straight… You will read on the net 2 other ways to upgrade. (remember the net is a good 25 years old now). The A40 farina mk2 conversion. YES, this was ONCE the way back in 1990. A40 mk2s have become WAY too rare. The 8 Austin A40 mk2 backing plate, which is an easy fit on, is too hard to source. Anyway, the 4 wheel cylinders are not available as cheap repro like MM, nor the drums, nor the shoes, so it sort of defeats the purpose. The thin end of the wedge is you seeing the UK advert for a rusty Midget sprite disc brake set for two hundred quid cool you say I will get that. Are the hubs ok? Did they include the pans? The steering linkage is different. Will yours/or the new one pan undo at the kingpin the fulcrum pin often jams solid and the pans have to be chucked at 300 each? Then you have a car with discs. But now you have it absolutely mismatched at the rear sod it have to do them too. You get the picture Also, discs have problems with the a30 master cylinder the cylinder is very low and there are disparate residual back-pressures (either zero, two lbs, ten lbs), different release and a mismatch to the frame cylinder (which is also low), which is not a wheel cylinder. As I said, a fat wedge indeed. The drum conversion means you can keep your old MC and pans and suspension etc. If youre not racing well who gives a rats about fade after ten pushes at high speed you only want it a couple times really hard normally youre not driving like a maniac. My Morrie 8 drums on my 1180 A30 pull up from 100mph after its 15.9 second qtr mile burn with minimal fade even at this speed and, as I said above, in normal modern traffic, it is amazing. Heaps of cooling (the drums weigh 50% more too) as it is only pulling up 700kg. Poops all over the 7inch and with a small (optional) booster is a good pedal too. Takes a couple months to bed in, though, so be patient. So, basically we want to switch to Morris Minor 1098 8inch brakes. The problems are two-fold. One the backing plate is utterly different in the centre plus it just hits part of the suspension. Two the drum needs to come in 3 to 4 mm or you will lose 8% of your shoes which sorta defeats the purpose. There are other set-up problems but well get to those. One issue I had was solved first by using an old-school MM part I used that old-school part as the new repro MM one from my main supplier (and most others) was/is rubbish metal and would give you grief later (or immediately) BUT, then the old-school ones ran out… So after some searching I have sourced these new ones for you. The new ones from this supplier were made independently and i discussed the issue with the owner. The part has plenty on the shelf and they knew well of the issue with the other new ones… And had these made to avoid that quality issue!! .. They cost a fair whack and you need 4 pairs of them. The other main parts are new and air-freighted to here and in stock for immediate despatch. THIS KIT UPGRADES A30 7 INCH BRAKES (they are ba-a-a-d) to MORRIS MINOR 1098 8 INCH BRAKES. A 50% INCREASE IN SURFACE AREA and all new parts including drums. Note it will take at least 1,000 km to reach full braking as the shoes need to wear down all high spots. All ideas on this Morris Minor 8 conversion that I have seen thus far on the internet, have been nebulous at best, utter twaddle at worst. Not one was right or even of any practical use. My system had to be such that it didn’t need some “engineering friend”, & the ideas address every tiny step as well as a way that a normal garage-home-mechanic can make it happen with non-precision gear, a good eye is enough. It will be BETTER if you get the MM plate prepared by an engineering shop, but not essential. It also tells you what you DON’T need, & also some notes on the front hub if you get waylaid there with wobble & how to fix it & how to PROPERLY synchronise the rear brakes with the system, which on an A30 is often not done properly. Also there are possible problems that could happen to you with the set-up of the hydraulics, pedal problems and so on all of which were finally solved in the different cars, but I give you the lot, so you have the big picture with all variables. I also had a pull to one side on another car. That was solved in a strange way. You know the score. But you get the info. PARTS ARE SPLIT INTO. You use and cut up your old A30 7 backing plates in a certain way I will tell you in the instructions, to make a new part for the conversion. In the unlikely event you mess up your old A30 plate as you do this, I will keep a pair here. If your A30 has Midget 7 plates on , they are different, BUT what we are doing to the old ones here means the difference is not relevant. To paraphrase for clarity.. By this, I mean that either 7 inch midget or 7 inch Austin a30 plates (even though theyre slightly different) make the same part for the. Purposes of this conversion. NEW FBK105 Wheel cylinders RHF x 2 30 each or 120 set. NEW FBK106 Wheel cylinders LHF x 2. New FBK113 pull off spring x 4 40 for set 4. New FBK117 nipple spares only 2 10 for pair (incl with w/c, or you could keep the old ones). New FBK118 small bolt late x 4 30 for 4. New FBK119 large bolt late x 4 30 for 4. New FBK121 front shoes set x 1 70 set. New CBS107 bridge pipe x 2 see (v) 40 pair. New CBS124 copper washer end hose to cyl x 2 no leaks!! All the parts needed to make an entire brand new front brake system are here. Instructions and photos in hard copy and a USB stick. OPTIONAL (a) to (k) below. When i say optional, I mean it could be either.. That some people may wish to source their own 8 plates, mine are airfreight ex UK ex a commercial company, if you can find some in a farmer’s field wreck here in OZ, then it is a good saving… Or that your old parts could be used. The bold print below is what you are more likely to need. (d) The front 8 backing plates are. NEW NOTE FOR (D) AND (E). FINITE RESOURCES OF RECOND PARTS (that’s what happened with the farina)…. AND CHASING AROUND TRYING TO GET GOOD QUALITY NEW PARTS OF THE SNAILS AND MASKS (important that the metal is good). THE PRICES ARE ROARING UP WITH (D) AS THEY RUN OUT… BUT I HAVE SECURED AT LEAST ANOTHER 5 KITS… BUT I MAY HAVE ISSUES LATER… WHAT WAS EASY 5 YEARS AGO IS BECOMING MORE PROBLEMATIC. BUT, GLOOM ASIDE, I DO HAVE THEM, ALBEIT AT A NEW PRICE… Used to be cheap as chips, now it’s close to here!! Anyway, just be aware. I will keep at it. (e) FBK110 FBK111 adjuster snail/mask x 4. I suggest using snails and masks from an 8 morrie… And new from my special supplier, I do not suggest the average supplier as this is a problem-part if you get the wrong metal. This is an optional part as the sprite uses 7 snails and masks… You could experiment with those, but there is a slight difference between 7 and 8 snails/masks in the internal axle diameter… You may find the 7 ones do not raise the shoes enough… A30 does not use snails and masks at all, so A30 people… You have no choice as far as using your existing a30 ones, as yours are utterly different. These are also air-freighted out here using a different supplier whose air rates are outrageous but he has me by the short and curlies as the normal-supplier’s ones are awful cast metal junk that strips. (f) VERY unlikely PARTS emergency part… The old 7 sprite or A30 backing plates is used for to make a part in the conversion , to use in addition to the 8 inch new plate. It is an easy mod, but it is possible you might accidentally bugger it up (unlikely as it is a dead easy mod), but if this should happen, i have one spare pair of old 7 inch plates sitting here… The booster makes the pedal feel easier. It does not increase braking capability per se it only makes it better as a function of you not having to divert concentration and divert some physical strength to push the pedal harder. You therefore have more wherewithal to control the vehicle as it brakes (eg a woman with less physical strength). You do not HAVE to install a booster to get the way-better brakes that is a function of 50% greater area, and new parts. Please note part of the process involves engineering. This CAN be done in two ways, eg by paying a shop to do it OR using basic tools at home in a clever set-up way, I tell you how. This three-part tool is specialised and will help a lot to do a process I have had this made up and it is cost to you with an allen key as well. I supply this at cost to you.. This paragraph is just info about another tool and. I suggest you think about (a) (b) (c) below now. I supply you with new factory-manufactured ends-pre-fitted bridging pipes (see kit inclusions) that can be re-bent easily with your hands into the slightly new shape to go from one WC to the other. You MAY even have to make new pipes for unlikely reasons. Later you may intend to add a booster and re-plumb. Part of this conversion may involve adding a brake part into the pipe system to get the pedal up. All the others are rubbish. Many cant even do a ball or bubble flare at all. Many will not be able to work with steel. But the lesser ones will end up in the bin Dont say I didnt warn you. I give you solutions to many variant problems that could occur that way you at least know ways to solve it. One variable is changed using A PROCESS, the other variable is using A PART another a HYDRAULIC PART. These are solutions/variables I have learnt and are in the instructions. They could be NOT REQUIRED/ ONE OF /TWO OF/THREE OF None are particularly expensive. CONDITIONS OF SALE to people not operating in the fair spirit of the sale and trying to pull parts out etc for pecuniary reasons. The instructions are extensive and literally took days to compile, photo and write. I help you all the way to a working system, give you free info on boosters and many other side-issues, but you have to help me make it viable. My decision on this subject is always final. The item “BRAKE UPGRADE FRONT conversion kit 7 austin a30 a35 TO 8 MORRIS MINOR no disc” is in sale since Sunday, March 17, 2019. This item is in the category “Vehicle Parts & Accessories\Car & Truck Parts\Vintage Car & Truck Parts”. The seller is “jimmytheparrot1″ and is located in Perth, WA. This item can be shipped worldwide.
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BRAKE UPGRADE FRONT conversion kit 7 austin a30 a35 TO 8 MORRIS MINOR no disc